The peak was first ascended by the legendary Tom Fyfe in 1894. A great way to access the West Ridge and descend. Full size version is only available to registered users Please Register as a New User or Login as Existing User to gain full access to all the photos on this site. Rising as the highest summit in the group of peaks between the Murchison and Tasman glaciers, Malte Brun is one of the classic peaks of the Southern Alps of New Zealand. The pass can be reached either via the lower sections of the East Ridge of the Aiguilles Rouges by dropping down a steep gut onto the Cascade Glacier or by travelling up the Murchison Glacier and climbing up the Cascade Stream, gaining the south side of the glacier. These packages are for a set number of days. An objectively 'safe' rock route with compact featured slabs. Hiking info, trail maps, and trip reports from Mount Hamilton (2,997 m) in New Zealand We decided to do that one, a 2000m route from our camp. Continue up 12m then cross left over grey corner onto new red rib. After crossing the broad expanse of the pass, descend either snow or, in late summer, rock and scree to the Beetham Valley. Registration is quick and completely free. Rap stations (pitons and nuts) have been established at <60m length on ascent. Alpine Guides offers a 3-day guided mountaineering package that can get you to the summit. The route was first attempted up to pitch 4.5 in mountain boots in 2015, and retreat was due to lack of gear. Fyfe’s route ascends to the left of a shallow couloir in the centre of the face. Step up to tiny roof, step right, then follow red rock keeping approx 10m right of grey corner. Rap stations (pitons and nuts) have been established at <60m length on ascent. A guided ascent of Malte Brun (3199m), New Zealand, by Keith Scott and Jamie Robertson (guide), February 2014. What route did you climb on Aspiring? Route photo taken from summit of Rumdoodle in February 2015 with slightly more snow on the route than on the first complete ascent. Climbers on the famous 'cheval' traverse of the West Ridge of Malte Brun Chimney moves are the crux. Although the climbing is not very difficult, it is still quite sustained. Cheval, West Ridge of Malte Brun, Mt Cook. Cross the Cheval and continue up 200m to the summit. Reached from the top of the Malte Brun Glacier either at the left hand edge (grade 16), or more easily up the right hand ramp (see white lines on photo). Malte Brun Expedition The highest peak in the Malte Brun range, and one of NZ's classic alpine rock summits. Up prominent rock rib to the right of the gully on the North face to the from the Bonney Glacier. An objectively 'safe' rock route with compact featured slabs. At least one of the pillars on the north side of the lower ridge has been climbed, and provides excellent climbing (crux 16). Malte Brun is a fantastic alpine rock peak, standing out high on the mountain range named after it, east of the Main Divide. To reach the Murchison Glacier either ascend from the lower Cascade Glacier up 250m of gullies onto the lower East Ridge of Aiguilles Rouges or else sidle around down the side of the snout of the Cascade Glacier. … Face (7611 m) Karakorum F/A + Malte Brun (NZ) S Face Ski + Summits in Nepal & Legends + Uluru Climbs Banned After 2019 Shispare N.E. Ascend the Cascade Glacier up easy slopes to the pass. 25m to ledge, ignore existing rap station 10m out left. CptTrips. An objectively 'safe' rock route with compact featured slabs. The easiest route begins by cutting left from the head of the Malte Brun Glacier up one of a series of couloirs onto a small snowfield and then up a short rock face onto the ridge. Start up the main gully on the left side of the north-west face, then stay right to climb the gully on the left of the large buttress. Useful GPS waypoints, current in 2020 are: Malte's warm red sandstone faces provide some of the best alpine rock mountaineering in the Mount Cook area. The Malte Brun is an alpine rock peak, and at 3199 metres it is one of the highest mountains in the Southern Alps. Bivvy site (there are many others): This route usually commences from the Bonney Glacier just above the small icefall but there is wide scope for variations especially from below the icefall. This route, or rather series of routes, starts from the head of the Malte Brun Glacier and joins the West Ridge proper well before the “Cheval”, a famous and spectacular narrow section of ridge. Panoramic mountain photography occasionalclimber.co.nz. The 6-day package gives time to fly in, high on the Tasman Glacier, before descending to your bivouac site. The NZ climbing forum seems pretty dead. In 1898, the Malte Brun Hut was built beside the Tasman Glacier. A great way to access the West Ridge and descend. Head up from obvious start to join weakness. The point to aim for when climbing the moraine wall (this will get you to the old Malte Brun hut site: Best pitch **. The routes on the western side of Mt Malte Brun provide good rock climbing and can be gained either via the Turnbull Glacier, which joins the upper Bonney Glacier, or up the Malte Brun Glacier. Alan and I attempted a route known as the Full West Ridge in 2011. Elevation: 1640m The Footstool 2,764 m The glaciated peak of the Footstool towers impressively above Mount Cook Village. Follow the ridge on generally good rock. Elev: 2036m, Aoraki Mount Cook: a guide for mountaineers, Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 New Zealand. An enjoyable alternative, however, is to climb the beautiful rock rib from the col which separates the Malte Brun and Bonney Glaciers. BYO rap cord and expect to replace it completely. The climb steepens and provides some difficulty before easing off where West Ridge is joined. First ascent unknown. Scene of Tom Fyfe’s remarkable 1894 solo climb. Malte Brun is located directly east of Mt Cook (New Zealand’s highest peak), separated by the mighty Tasman glacier. Laurence Earle, Freda Du Faur, Peter Graham, Jan 1910. The pass can be reached either via the lower sections of the East Ridge of the Aiguilles Rouges by dropping down a steep gut onto the Cascade Glacier or by travelling up the Murchison Glacier and climbing up the Cascade Stream, gaining the south side of the glacier. The West Ridge (NZ Grade 3), with its famous "cheval" section, is one of the finest alpine rock climbs in the range with rock that is extremely solid by New Zealand standards. On reaching the true West Ridge negotiate the Cheval and then up 200m to the summit. The first Ball Hut was built in 1891 at the site where William Green had pitched his fifth camp in 1882. Shispare N.E. The property last sold for $690,000 on 9 September 2014. Continue up rock directly to the Cheval or follow the ledge which ramps to the right, arriving on the West Ridge about 60m west of the Cheval. Aoraki Mount Cook: a guide for mountaineers, Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 New Zealand. Alpine Guides' Expeditions are guided climbing packages for NZ's most notable peaks: including Aoraki Mount Cook, Mount Tasman, and Mount Aspiring. Altough it has the most unstable weather It's still possible to climb big peaks well into the summer eg Aspiring/Malte Brun. An enjoyable climb for a sunny day. From the névé of the Bonney Glacier, ascend the snow and ice couloir to within l00m of the summit. Elev: 1828m Some existing anchors/ bollards in place at approx 25m intervals. The climbing on these routes is exposed, but not too difficult. Face (7611 meters) difficult First Ascent in the Karakorum by Japanese climbers Conrad Malte-Brun [needs Danish and French IPA] (12 August 1775 – 14 December 1826), born Malthe Conrad Bruun, and sometimes referred to simply as Malte-Brun, was a Dano-French geographer and journalist. This route is used regularly for descents but be sure to remember where to turn off the West Ridge in order to reach the head of the Malte Brun Glacier. Dan Baker - Dec 6, 2005 4:47 pm - Voted 8/10 Untitled Comment. The head of the Tasman Glacier, though a serious area, is a good introduction to the Mount Cook region. From the Beetham Valley follow the stream up past the tributary from the main Beetham Glacier then turn up the next major gully descending from the Pass on the south side of a small ridge sticking out from the pass. Hiking info, trail maps, and trip reports from Malte Brun (3,199 m) in the Southern Alps of New Zealand Lat: -43.54864 According to Land Information New Zealand , it rises to a height of 3,199 metres (10,495 ft),  although other sources give heights ranging from 3155 to 3199 m. Getting to the start of the climb proved quite long already: from the camp you get onto the large ridge leading to the west ridge. And range, from Plateau Hut, Mt Cook NP Malte Brun is the highest peak in the Malte Brun Range, which lies between the Tasman and Murchison Glaciers within New Zealand's Southern Alps. Snowslopes or scree lead up under Aiguilles Rouges onto the extensive plateau of the pass. The summit offers stunning views of the Aoraki Mount Cook massif and the lakes of the Mackenzie Region. There is plenty of room for variations. See below for route from Beetham Valley. Map H36 and I36 Grade 5 1500 metres One reasonably tough day of six or seven hours. Unregistered users can only view full size photos that have been added this month. The first mountain huts were built near the Ball Glacier in 1891 and below Mt Malte Brun in 1898. From the Bonney Glacier climb compact rock that steepens progressively to a crux before a snowcovered ledge Access the ledge toward either the left or the right. His second son, Victor Adolphe Malte-Brun, was also a geographer.Today he is perhaps best remembered for coining the name for the geographic region Oceania (French Océanie) around 1812. Together with Alan Silva we travelled to New Zealand in February 2012 to climb Malte Brun, New Zealand’s 6 th highest peak at 3196m. Long: 170.28782 Top of the access gully: Climbing huts were first built in the central Southern Alps by the government for guided climbers. A winter and spring route involving M3 climbing. Snowslopes or scree lead up under Aiguilles Rouges onto the extensive plateau of the pass. Take … ... Nice. Mt Tasman is … Follow weakness/ crack then head left to Arete. 2/3 of the route was on fantastic rock. In the Malte Brun Range there are long climbs over generaly good rock and broken glaciers, Malte Brun(3155m) being the highest peak. Reached from the top of the Malte Brun Glacier either at the left hand edge (grade 16), or more easily up the right hand ramp (see white lines on photo). From the lower Bonney Glacier ascend the ribs and slabs of excellent rock between the North East and North Ridges. Continue up arete to large ledge, then follow right trending cracks up to belay ledge. First accent was done with bivy gear and the team descended down the Bonney Rib. Despite this most of the ridge is on snow and ice. The last 1/3 was quite chossy. Thanks for posting them, I'm heading to NZ in Jan and Feb 06, Multe Brun is one that is on the tick-list. Due to insufficient data, the value of the property cannot be estimated. At about 1,500m on Wakefield Ridge, looking north east to the Malte Brun Range At about 1,600m on Wakefield Ridge, looking north east to the terminal lake of the Tasman Glacier with, from left, the Minarets, Elie De Beaumont, The Malte Brun Range, Murchison River and the Liebig Range (Nun's Veil with a … Lat: -43.55025 Long:170.28311 The first complete ascent was done with rock shoes in optimal climbing conditions, switching to approach shoes at the apex of the West Ridge.
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